Heligan Gardens

By Josh Fairhead • 15 minutes read •

Giant wooden fox sculpture at the Lost Gardens of Heligan

After visiting the Eden Project, I decided to set my alarm for 6am once again and get over to Heligan, the sister gardens of the Eden Project. Arriving at the gardens, I realise that once again I’ve no coin for the locker and yet again the staff sort me out, simply asking me to return it at the end of the day. As I’m early I decide to get breakfast but have to fish out my computer in order to release the funds needed for a meal. It’s a bit of a ballache to be honest, but I’m in.

This was somewhat quaint and more old-timey, which can be felt in the atmosphere. I’m already feeling the weight of the place and after a brief moment of aimless wandering around the paths, quickly happen across a tour where I’m told that apparently the massive Fuchsia bush in front of us is the largest in England. The tour guide also mentions there’s a plaque to the gardeners who lost their lives in the First World War - which helps date things.

Entrance sculpture with wordsBird house in the gardenThe massive Fuchsia bush - largest in EnglandRhododendrons in bloomGarden flowers

Following the paths a little further, I end up by the greenhouses and vegetable gardens. They’re somewhat dull and many are closed off. There’s some historical information as mentioned, as well as some of the accommodations for gardeners of the day. Bloody hell, sounds taxing - work sun up to sun down and then study in the evening, mostly about plants and their names. Reflecting on Bennett’s work, once again I see the Great Mother culture present, teaching us puny humans how to grow things with shovels and spades. There are also a couple of ‘thunder boxes’, which are shelters from German bombs — ahh, political history… germinal struggle present at multiple scales.

Greenhouse entranceVictorian greenhouseGreenhouse interiorScarecrow in the vegetable gardensVegetable garden rowsVegetable gardens and hedgesGarden path with flowersWalled garden borderGardener's potting shedGreenhouse plantsPlants by the greenhousePotting shed toolsGreenhouse detailGreenhouse corridorPineapple pit informationHistorical garden displayGarden tools displayGarden storagePotted plants collectionGreenhouse plantsOrnate bird house

We continue onwards through an arch of purple flowers, to a garden that amounts to a dead end. Nothing special other than a resting spot for old folks to sit down with a bird bath situated nearby. We decide to find a way around to whatever is beyond and pop out by some animal sheds. There are donkeys and goats in this area as well as a few other farm animals. I’m not sure if there were any for eating, but there probably were a few.

Duck pond and farm areaFarm animalsAnimal sheds

Beyond were a number of forking pathways: left for the bird house, straight on for the playground and right for the jungle. Since the playground is directly within sight, I bounce on the inflatable balloons a little, zip on a zipline and then head to the jungle, which ducks and weaves all over. I cross a rope bridge above some giant rhubarb, and follow the stream to the very bottom of the valley.

Picnic area under canopyFarm pathwayPlayground areaEntering the jungle pathJungle vegetationBamboo jungle pathTropical plants in the jungleJungle canopyJungle trailSteps into the valleyJungle flowersRope bridge above the jungleJungle below the bridgeTropical plants from aboveJungle path continuingTropical jungle with palms and fernsFern trees in the jungleGiant rhubarb by the pond

We look at the map and head up the trail once more to find the trail with artwork leading back to the entrance. The valley is massive with quite an enjoyable view, and yes, an incredible giant fox made of wood is present. We move onwards towards a viewing platform that is supposed to amplify the sound of the wind. This is a pleasant enough view, but there’s no wind, so the experience is limited to a rest. Back out and around there is a trail passing a large beehive and a lady made of wire that was impossible to photograph. There was also a stone statue of a lady lying down and, probably most interestingly, the restored Cornish stone wall — much more polished than what we have in Ireland.

Coin-covered wishing logWishing log detailValley trailValley viewWoodland path through the valleyValley vegetationGiant wooden fox sculptureFox sculpture from belowFox den information boardRabbit trail markerViewing platform areaView from the platformTrail through the meadowWildflower meadowBluebell woodlandGrey Lady information signBeehive along the trailGarden trailPath through the treesTrail continuingTrail artMud Maid information signMud Maid lying in the earthMud Maid detailGarden pathStone path through gardensGarden borderRestored Cornish stone wallWall and gardenStone wall craftsmanshipGarden bordersFlower bedsWalled gardenGarden viewRavine pathwayRavine with streamStone path through tropical plantsLush garden pathGarden walkwayGarden foliageTropical plantsGarden plantsPalm and fern gardenGarden detailGarden pathwayStone steps in the gardenUpper garden viewGarden panoramaFlower-lined path by greenhouseRhododendron petals on the path

Arriving back at the beginning we decide to wander around some of the paths and find a nice ravine with water running through it before heading off to the bird sanctuary, stopping for a pasty and salad at the Steward’s House en route.

Greenhouse and flowersGarden border by the wallWalled garden flowersGarden in bloomGarden overviewHistorical garden areaGarden shed interiorGardener's quarters - seed jars and booksGardener's living quartersGardener's deskPeriod furnishingsGarden walkwayFloral borderGarden flowersTrail through woodsColourful flower bedFarm buildingsWalled flower gardenFlower garden detailGarden path with hedgesHedge-lined walkwayGarden exit pathLunch stopPath to bird sanctuarySteward's House areaFarm areaWoodland path

Getting slightly lost leads to an art exhibition on the future of nature by the university, with some interesting pieces and some that are less good. Finally we arrive at the viewing hut and there’s a bunch of information on birds and a window to look out. I don’t have the patience for this, and having seen a male and female thrush up at the Steward’s House (which is apparently quite rare) I decide to wander some trails and call it for the day.

Trail marker postNature trailArt exhibition entranceExhibition artworkNature art pieceExhibition displayArtwork on natureExhibition pieceArt displayNature artworkExhibition viewLino print artworkExhibition pieceArt on displayExhibition artworkNature-themed artArt displayExhibition pieceArtworkExhibition displayNature artExhibition artworkDisplay pieceArt exhibitionArtwork detailExhibitionArt pieceExhibition displayArtworkArt exhibition pieceNature art displayExhibitionArt displayExhibition artworkDisplayArt pieceMoth pattern textile artExhibition exitBird sanctuary pathBird sanctuary areaThrush near the Steward's HouseWoodland trailTrail through the gardensGarden pathChick trail markerWalking backGarden viewPath back to entranceFinal garden viewsGarden exitLeaving the gardensTrain journey back

Getting the train back I once again miss my stop, end up having to wait about 30 minutes until the return train to Exeter arrives. Sitting on this train I feel some interesting energy coming through, and am tempted to stay on it until Exeter. I Google possibilities and am forced to change at Par before I can make a decision. After a bag of crisps and some peanut brittle from the pub, I briefly get forced to interact with a ‘rocker’ sitting outside who’s quizzing me if I’m homeless because of my day bag that looks like a sleeping bag. I say no, but actually I am, I just haven’t realised it. Suddenly he boards the train, generates a bit of a hoo-ha and then sits across from me talking to himself and trying to get my attention by making jokes and talking about Jesus and the Devil. Reminds me of an old colleague who was similarly quirky. I’m oddly singing ‘all I want to do is love you’ as I exit at Newquay; I wonder what that’s about but realise later a little about the benevolent agency at play. OK Exeter, you’re good by me.

I book another night and lights out.